Modifications and Other Tips
This section is for various add on or modifications to the Coaster Dynamix model systems.Below are photos and descriptions of various useful ideas to compliment Coaster Dynamix Models.
Modifications and Other Tips
Spine Connector Modifications
You may have noticed that the spine connectors have a tendency to slip out of the track spines. Below are a couple easy modification that you can make to the spine connectors so they will fit securely in the end of the spines. The first section below shows the flex spine connectors and the second section shows the molded to flex connectors. Some things needed: 1 roll of 2 inch or 3/4 inch Scotch Brand Painters Masking Tape, small screw diver, scissors, tape measure and the spine connectors you want to modify.
These are the various sections of different types of modifications shown below:
Spine Connector Modifications, Making Footers, Extending Lift Springs,
Working With Rails: Installing, Cleaning, Fixing and Cutting Rails,
Building the Model, Disassembly, Lift Hill Fix and Inverted Lift Hills
Flex Track Connectors
How to modify the Flex spine connectors. Having trouble with the connectors sliding out. By adding some tape to the ends of spine connectors it helps keep them from slipping from the spines.
Below are photos and description of how to make the modification.
Molded to Flex Track Connectors
How to modify the Molded spine connectors. Having trouble with the connectors sliding out. By adding some tape to the ends of spine connectors it helps keep them from slipping from the spines.
Below are photos and description of how to make the modification.
1. Things needed. 2. The spine connectors. 3. Cut a section of tape that is 3/4 inch by 2 inch, then rap the end with a section of tape, use 2 if needed for tight fit. 4. The finished spine connector.
Clean and Oil the Rails
How to clean and oil the rails to keep your coaster operating properly. Things you need are: a rag, a silicone based spray and your model with rails installed. Make sure that you are using a silicone based spray. Spray some of the silicone spray on a rag in a corner area so that rag is wet. Then pinch the rail between fingers with wet part contacting the rail on all sides. Rub in an elongated motion along the rail doing one side at a time. After cleaning each side of the rails let the coaster dry for 15 minutes.
Below are photos and description of how to clean and oil the rails.
1. Silicone based spray. 2. Things needed, spray and rag. 3. Cleaning the rail. 4. Cleaning the other side.Click all the photos for a larger view.
Extending Lift Springs
Often people have a short lift hill spring and have wondered how to extend a spring. You want to go to local hardware store and find wooden dowels in the trim department. Take your spring with you and find one that the spring fits very tight on. The different lifts systems have different size springs but generally a Scorpion type spring is a 3/16 inch dowel which fits very tight. You may also try a 5/32 dowel for Phoenix type spring as they seem to be a little smaller. Get it larger if you have to as to sand it down if needed. You want it to fit very tight. Cut a section about 1 inch long to fit in the spring connection. Then follow below by simply cutting a short dowel section and add the springs.
Below are photos and description of how to extend your lift spring.
1. Springs to join. 2. Wooden dowel rode. 3. Insert in one end. 4. Join both sides.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
Creating Realistic Footers
Here is a simple way to make realistic looking footers for roller coaster models. You need to go to a hardware store and find CPVC pipe and couplings in 1/2 inch size. You will need to get a section of pipe several feet long depending on how many footings you want to create. Using a saw or small pipe cutter you want to cut your small pipes into 1 inch sections and insert them into the couplings.
NO GLUE IS NEEDED. You can just push them together for a good snug fit.
Below are photos and description of how to make footers.
1. Things needed. 2. Cut the pipe into 1 inch long sections. 3. Support and footer. 4. Finished footer.  
Rail End Fix
With usage the ends of the rails tend to flare out a bit so that the rail connectors fit loose or slide around during use. A simple way to solve this is by lightly pinching the end of the rail with a pair of pliers or hemostats to re shape the end of the rail. Don't pinch to hard or you may ruin the end of the rails, if that occurs simple trim the end of the rail by cutting off the bad section.
Below are photos and description of how to fix rail endings.
1. Good one & bad one. 2. Pinching the rail. 3. Fixed rail ends. 4. Cutting the bad end if not fixable.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
Cutting Rails to Make a Connection
So you have come to the part where you need to make the cut to tie your ends of rails together. Here is an easy way to make clean cuts to make solid rail connections. This is just one of many ways to cut rails its just the way I have chosen to cut my rails. I use a dog nail clipper with a certain type cutting action. I use these as they have a flat side to push up to the end of your rail then cut the one needed leaving a clean cut. You can just simply cut both ends of your rails, I prefer to only cut the end I need to cut as I like keep my rails long. Following below you will see tips on how I cut my rail endings. The main thing you want to do is keep the cutter at a right angle to the rails or you might end up with angled cuts. If you watch what you are doing you can create clean cuts simply.
Below are photos and description of how I cut rails to fit.
Connecting Rails in Tight Corners
Sometimes its a little difficult to get your rails to fit into a tight corner when you have to make a connection to another rail ending. What you want to do is pre bend your rail a little to get it to conform to the corner so that you take the stress off the connection point. You want to take the rail between your fingers and thumb and slowly and gently bend the rail into the shape I want it. You dont need to bend it a lot just a little bit along the rail and you will get a nice curve in the rail.
Below are photos and description of how to make rail connections in corners.
1. Ready to cut. 2. Clippers. 3. Close up of flat side. 4. Push flat side to end of rail.
5. Cutting. 6. Nice clean even cut. 7. Install rail connector. 8. Finished connection.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
1. Tight corner. 2. Bend between fingers. 3. Showing how its reshaped. 4. Install rail connection.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
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1. Things needed. 2. The spine connectors. 3. Cut 2 sections of tape that are 3/4 inch by 2 inch, then rap the end with 2 sections of tape. 4. The finished spine connector.
End of Lift Connectors
How to modify the End of lift connectors. Having trouble with the connectors sliding out. By adding some tape to the ends of spine connectors it helps keep them from slipping from the spines.
Below are photos and description of how to make the modification.
1. Things needed. 2. The lift connectors. 3. Cut a section of tape that is 3/4 inch by 2 inch, then rap the end with a section of tape. 4. The finished lift connector.
Working with the Rails
Install Rail Connectors
So you are building your model and need to connect the rails with the metal rail connectors. I like to put my connectors in with a snap of a pair of hemostats. I install my rails and leave the ends close as I am adding rails. I install one side and then snap the other side with the hemostats. This way it prevents the rail connector from sliding into the other end of the rail creating and even splice.
Below are photos and description of how to install rail connectors.
1. Ends of the rails. 2. Insert rail connector. 3. Get hemostats in place. 4. Installed rail connection.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
Installing supports, track, ties and rails.
Basic instructions on how to create roller coaster track and supports. First starting with the bases you begin with placement of the supports and add the various fittings for the shape you want. The general idea is to have supports no more then about 7 inches between connection points. It will make the track very stiff and create a better flow. Next install your spine by snapping it into the fitting. Then you install your ties which I like to put about 3/4 in apart as it works good and creates a good rail. After I start to install the rails snapping each side into place. I like to do a few inches on each side to keep a good even alignment of the rails. After the rails are installed you have your completed track.
Below are photos and description of how to install the parts.
1. Bases. 2. Support and fittings. 3. Install various fittings. 4. Install the track spine.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
5. Install the ties. 6. Installing the rails. 7. Install other side. 8. Finished track.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
Disassembly of the track.
This is how I remove my rails and ties from the spines. I do this so that the rails don't get bent or kinked. In the process I pull the rails still connected to the ties so that they come off the spine. I then take a finger in the middle of the track section. Going from the middle of the length of the rail I push the ties toward the end of the rail. Then slide them off the end in a pile so that you don't bend the rails.
Below are photos and description of how to disassemble the track.
1. Completed track. 2. Removing the rails. 3. Sliding the ties off. 4. Empty rail section.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
Lift Hill End Modification
When operating a sit down type train on some of the lift hills the train has a tendency to stick when it dives off the end of the lift hill. I have found that you need to roll the last inch of the lift hill with the sander. The first three photos below show how to trim the end of the lift hill. The last photo shows a different issue that occurs when trying to operate a sit down train on the older lift hills. They have a tendency to stick to the lift hill. If it is minor you might try sanding the trough a little like in the last photo. WARNING Not recommended.  You can cause the spring to pop out the trough ruining the lift. I suggest sanding the bottom of the trains instead. READ to next section on modifying the bottom of the trains.
Below are photos and description of how to modify the lift hills.
Lift Hill Modifactions
Create an inverted lift with molded track.
How to create a useful inverted lift with the molded track. I use a set of down curves and grind of parts of the molded track. You want to grind off both ears of each side of one piece and both on the second piece. Leaving the nut and screw connection points. Assemble the parts and add to a long section of molded track. I then set up the track so that a spring can be inserted into the track and attached to the lift motor. The running rails can then be run underneath the lift hill making for a realistic lift hill assembly.
Below are photos and description of how to assemble an inverted lift hll.
1. Lift track. 2. End to fix. 3. Filed down end. 4. Grinding down the trough.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
1. Things needed. 2. Cutting the molded track. 3. Finished pieces. 4. Pieces assembled.
Create Rail Connectors
Have you lost of run out of rail connectors and need some more to build with. At certain hobby shops or home repair centers there are small metal rods that are the same dimensions as the rail connectors. Also some office supply chains sell large 3 inch long paper clips that the metal used is also the correct thickness. I believe the thickness for the rails is 3/32 of an inch. Generally you want to cut your new connectors to around 3/4 inch long as the original ones are 5/8 of an inch.
Below are photos and description of how to create rail connectors.
1. Things needed. 2. Measure connectors. 3. Cutting. 4. New rail connectors.
Click all the photos for a larger view.
5. Setting up the lift. 6. Insert spring. 7. Add the rails. 8. Finished lift hill.
Click all the photos for a larger view.